Alaverdi, Sanahin and Haghpat

The operator of the Alaverdi-Sanahin cable-car has a slight memory problem.

[When was the ropeway built?] I ask him

[When was it built? What did you have for dinner last night?]

[I don't understand. I'm sorry, my Armenian isn't very good.]

[What did you eat for dinner last night?  I'm 65 years old. I can't remember what I had for dinner last night. How can I remember how old the ropeway is?]

[But is it safe?]

[Of course it's safe.  I remember how to drive it.]

Unlike the slick, newly opened cable-car in Tatev, the Alaverdi-Sanahin cable-car in Lori Marz is a daily commuter.  Its windows are scratched and cloudy, its paint worn and the operator must step out at each stop to keep the car from swaying on its single carrying cable.  But for a princely sum of 140 drams (~40 US cents) for a roundtrip, about 1/20th the price of the Tatev trip, the cable-car is an essential connection between the town of Sanahin, located on a clifftop overlooking the Debed River and the mining city of Alaverdi located in the valley floor.

The Alaverdi #2 Cable Car and the town's copper mine

Taking in the Scenery in Vayots Dzor

A fall day in Yeghegnadzor, Armenia

As I started packing for my two plus years in Armenia, I looked down at the mess on the floor and wondered how I was going to carry enough for my stay.  Something had to go.  Many things had to go.  The mammoth Minolta camera I bought more than twenty years ago and its accompanying lenses were primed for the list of things to leave behind.  But how could I go to Armenia for 2 years without a camera?  Just as the decision making process was beginning to seem overwhelming, a friend stopped by and placed in my hand a small digital camera.  I was so glad to have it, but I doubted that I would be able to produce photographs of anywhere near the same quality as I would have with my ancient film camera.  Well, I was wrong.

Encouraged by my friends at home and inspired by the amazing Armenian landscape and seemingly never-ending light show, I have taken hundreds of photos.  I must admit that many of my best pictures were taken from my balcony or kitchen window.  Sometimes, I am almost embarrassed that the pictures that I share with my friends and family were taken when I happened to wander out on my balcony.  But in the end, why should I be?  These views from my little studio apartment have made my stay here unforgettable.  The Armenian landscape never disappoints, no matter what the season or time of day.  I hope you will forgive my amateur enthusiasm and enjoy these photos as much as I enjoyed watching them unfold.

Bagratashen

The village of Bagratashen is located on the Armenian- Georgian border. The Dbet river separates the two countries, with the border crossing just outside the village. Bagratashen was well-known by locals for the bustling foreign market which shut down 2 years ago, and its sunflower industry which still thrives. In summer months, fields of sunflowers decorate roads and pathways which provide for scenic flat-land hiking.

At one of the lowest altitudes in Armenia, Bagratashen is usually remarkably warmer than surrounding towns and villages. The border crossing has a hotel, ATM, cafe, and duty-free shop. Shops in the village have Ritz-like crackers which cannot be found anywhere but in larger cities in Armenia. During certain times of the year, you can buy an entire roasted sunflower head to eat. Traveling towards Vanadzor from Bagratashen, produce from a Kurdish village is sold along the road and you will see reconstruction from a devastating landslide that took place in 2011. In my 2 years of living in Armenia, I have never witnessed more beautiful landscape and rock formations than when travelling towards Vanadzor from Bagratashen.

What is Easter in Armenia?

Easter is tasteful and energetic, colorful, blossoming, because lent is over and spring joy enters everyone’s heart christening for resurrection and new life.  Armenia’s Easter is truly lively. It is a holiday one won’t stay home. Aspire, optimistic, buoyancy and hope gyrate in the air. Churches and streets are full of families, young people, and children. Aroma of incense and voices of praises emerge from the churches where people are endlessly moving in and out and around.

Easter (in Armenian Zatik) is belovedand the most expected holiday in Armenia. Armenia has been Christian country since 301, and since then Easter has been popular and participative public holiday. Everybody in the streets, at home in friendly and family gatherings greets each other and says: “Christ has arisen". The answer is “Blessed is the resurrection of Christ".

To Gyumri by Train... (Part 1)

"100 Years of Armenian Railroads"

For those who have a bit of extra time, an aversion to crowded marshutkas, or enjoy the romance of ancient cities and rail travel, a day-long or overnight excursion to Gyumri by train is a fabulous way to see Armenia's second city and escape the heat of a Yerevan summer for the cool mountain air of Shirak Marz.  Trains leave the Sasunsi Davit railway station at 8:00am and 6:10pm every day rain, shine or snowstorm.  You can buy your ticket for 950 dram at the station or on board the train.  The train itself is a Soviet 1955 "elektrichka" model, a piece of living, working history.  If you take the evening train, arrive early so you can have some time to see the Armenian Railways museum, consisting of and located in a 1930's locomotive and railcar housing exhibits on the construction of the Caucasus railway system and a caretaker who will show you his 20, 30, 40 and 50 year service medals for working on the railroad system.

PEOPLE, TOURISM AND CULTURE - ARMENIA AT ITS BEST!

Laurent Nadeau, my husband and I Louise Aznavour began our love affair with Armenia about 10 years ago. I was invited to give a series of workshops at the American University of Armenia (AUA). The caliber of the students was remarkable. Enjoyable experiences accumulated over the years as the invitations to offer volunteer professional services to companies and even consulates became part of our ‘excuse’ to go back to Armenia.

A Day in Armenia's Wine Country

A view of the Arpa River from the bridge in Areni

About an hour and a half south of Yerevan on the main road is the village of Areni.  You will know that you are approaching the village when the roadside stalls, usually reserved for fresh fruit, become displays of Coke and Fanta bottles that look suspiciously like they have something besides the advertised product inside.  Most of the bottles are, in fact, empty and only painted to look filled, but that little tidbit of information shouldn’t stop you from pulling over to sample what they are selling: wine and spirits made from local fruits. 

Mshkavank

Walking to Mshkavank from Koghb

A short hike from Koghb or Noyemberyan is Mshkavank, a 13th century monastery whose 5th-6th century triple-nave Basilica church was most likely built on top of a Pagan temple. The monastery is known for its 12th c. gavit, or assembly room, which was constructed in the same time period and similar to the gavit at Haghpat (a UNESCO site, about an hour drive to the Lori region). The monastery contains many old stone carvings and khachkars. For anyone interested in Art History, Mshkavank would be an excellent stop in the Tavush region. The layers of styled architecture and decorations from different time periods are obvious even to the untrained eye.

Along the Old Silk Road in Vayots Dzor

The sign welcoming you to Yeghegnadzor.

(Photo courtesy of Narek Beglaryan)

Heading south on the main road from Yerevan, about 20 minutes past Areni, lies the town of Yeghegnadzor, the provincial capital of Vayots Dzor marz.  On a small hill on the right-hand side of the road, the entrance to the town is marked by a Hollywoodesque sign in Armenian letters cut from local stone.  Right in front of the sign is what looks like a footpath leading seemingly to nowhere.  Blink and you’ll miss it.  And you don’t want to miss it.

Clear Day

Near Talin, Aragotsotn Marz